Chez Gladines is something of a brand name among Parisian bohos and strapped-for-cash students. It had been recommended to me countless times as one of the best places in Paris for inexpensive, simple, satisfying fare, and has also been wildly praised for its laid-back, cheery ambiance, which manages both hipness and old-world charm. Eager to judge for myself, I accompanied a friend who'd already happily eaten at Chez Gladines for dinner-- and came away convinced. From enormous mixed salads served in giant metal bowls for next to nothing, to hearty Basque dishes presented with simplicity, Gladines delivers.
The Lowdown
Pros:
- Hearty, authentic French-Basque and southwest dishes
- Generous portions at reasonable prices
- Convivial atmosphere, somewhere between old-school Paris and hip
Cons:
- Reservations not accepted
- No credit cards
- Not particularly intimate: avoid for romantic têtes-à-têtes
Practical Info:
- Address: 30 Rue des Cinq Diamants, 13th arrondissement
- Tel.: 33 (0)1 45 80 70 10
- Metro: Place d'Italie or Corvisart
- Bus: Line 62
- Hours: Mon-Tues, 12 pm-3 pm and 7 pm-12 am; Wed-Sat 12 pm-3 pm and 7 pm-1 am; Sat. 12 pm-4 pm and 7 pm-1 am; Sun. 12 pm-4 pm
- Cuisine: French Basque and Southwest (regional). Giant mixed salads, Basque-style chicken (recommended), cassoulet, potatoes with ham and cantal cheese, and piperade (Basque-style egg scramble with vegetables) are among the house specialties.
- Drinks: Wine list; beer and cider
- Price range: Approx. 10-15 Euros per person for full menu (starter, main course, dessert, wine)
- Crowd: Bohos, students, neighborhood regulars
- Reservations: not accepted. Make sure to arrive early (7 p.m. or so) to avoid waiting outside with the crowd. This is a highly-prized restaurant and crowds are constant.
Setting and Ambiance
Situated in the heart of Paris' quaint Butte aux Cailles neighborhood, famous for its village charm and its art nouveau houses, Chez Gladines is located on Rue des Cinq Diamants, a narrow street lined with always-packed bars, restaurants, and "concept cafes". The mostly-pedestrian little streets, artisan shops and hidden nooks make it easy to forget that you're in a major metropolis.
Knowing that a crowd will soon be lining around the block to eat at Gladines, my companion and I arrive early, managing to easily secure a table. The place is already bustling, though, and the friendly waiter asks us to share a table with two other people. This might irk in other circumstances, but Gladines' easy, convivial atmosphere is contagious, and we're soon chatting away with our table-neighbors about the menu. I can hardly believe I'm in Paris, where conversing with strangers is a rare event.
The Ambiance at Chez Gladines
The restaurant is decorated with traditional Basque icons, including the Basque flag and the ubiquitous cone-nosed bonhomme, who curiously resembles Pinocchio. Then there's the large back-wall mirror plastered with yellowing posters and postcards of indie-rock acts and performance artists. Juxtaposed with the kitschy checked tablecloths and carnations on the table, the effect is an eclectic mix of urban hipster and cheery, old-style working class Paris.
The Dining Experience
ServiceOur affable, helpful waitress soon comes around to make suggestions and answer our questions about the menu. She is clearly passionate about Basque and southwest cuisine and cheerfuly translates some of the menu's more cryptic items.
The Fare
Less than famished and amazed by the huge, nearly North-American portions being served around the restaurant, my friend and I decide to order a main course and drinks, figuring we'll see about dessert later-- if we still have room.
My friend opts for a heartier-than-hearty veal filet prepared basque-style (11.60 Euros), with ham, a creamy sauce, and layers of thin, gratin-style potatoes that have been fried in duck fat, giving them a distinct, pungent flavor. An Iowa native, my companion notes that the dish is comfortingly reminiscent of midwestern cooking: no-nonsense, simple, and delicious.
I follow the waitress's advice and order chipiron biscaina: whole calamari in a ratatouille-like sauce, served with the house potatoes (10.50 Euros). I'm surprised to see that it comes served like a stew, in something resembling a small crock-pot, and that the potatoes are in the stew, rather than served as a side. Somewhat apprehensive, especially since the calamari are whole and resemble small octopi, I am finally won over by the odd dish, whose textures are at first strange and progressively grow on you. The waitress brings over a traditional Basque spice, espilette, and counsels me to sprinkle it over my chipiron. The spicy note brings out the flavors and textures of this surprising dish, somewhere between Provence and the midwest.
Dessert, Drinks, and My Bottom Line
Since it's a warm April day, we opt for a bottle of brut cider to accompany our meal (9.50 Euros), taking note that Gladines is also a wine bar, specializing in southwest varieties. Perhaps not a traditional choice, the crisp, slightly sweet, slightly tart cider somehow works well with our meal.
As expected, the ample portions have left us little room for dessert, so we share a crème caramel: a typical French custard with caramel sauce, resembling flan. Cold and creamy, yet relatively light, the simple dessert proves a good finishing touch to our meal. At only 2.60 Euros, this is a dessert option that fits a tight budget, too.
My Bottom Line
Chez Gladines lives up to its reputation as one of Paris' best budget restaurants. If you're looking for delicious regional French dishes served with simplicity in generous portions, Chez Gladines is for you. Try this restaurant to get a taste of how warm Paris can be-- at Gladines, tired cliches of Parisian snobbery and stiffness have no place. Noisy and convivial, this is a place where impromptu conversations with the locals is likely. On the other hand, if you're looking for an intimate nook for a romantic dinner, are a strict vegetarian, or shirk crowded tables, Gladines may cramp your style.
Please note that while prices and menu items were accurate at the time that this restaurant was reviewed, they are subject to change at any time.
