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The Belleville Neighborhood in Paris

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A view from Aux Folies, a historic and still-popular bar in Paris's Belleville district.

A view from Aux Folies, a popular bar in Paris's very metropolitan Belleville district.

©2000 Meg Zimbeck. Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons License.
Rue de Belleville in the early 20th century.

Rue de Belleville in the early 20th century.

Public domain.
The Belleville Neighborhood in Paris

Belleville is well-known for its street art.

A Cultural Hodgepodge:

Welcome to Belleville – home to one of Paris’s lively Chinatowns, a burgeoning artist quarter and a dizzying array of cultures. Belleville has always been a working class neighborhood, with immigration generating much of the area's zest. What started in the 1920's with Greeks, Jews and Armenians led to waves of North Africans, Sub-Saharan Africans and Chinese immigrants settling here. Cheap rents have also led artists to flow into the area, making it an ideal spot for their ateliers. Belleville may not provide a typical experience of Paris, but its energy and diversity are certainly worth checking out.

Belleville Neighborhood Orientation:

While not huge, Belleville is sandwiched within four Paris arrondissements (districts) – the 10th, 11th, 19th and 20th. It lies to the east of the Republique metro station, to the southeast of the Bassin de la Villette and the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and north of the Pere Lachaise cemetery.

Main Streets Around Belleville: Rue de Belleville, Boulevard de Belleville, Boulevard de la Villette

 

Getting To the Belleville Neighborhood:

Belleville is best served by metro line 11. Get off at the Belleville station to land directly in Chinatown, or walk towards it from Couronnes station (line 2). There is no metro stop for the Parc de Belleville, so your best bet is to get off at either Pyrénées (line 11) or Couronnes and weave through the side streets. Stations Jourdain and Telegraphe (line 11) will deposit you in the northern reaches of the Belleville neighborhood.

Belleville Neighborhood History:

 

  • Belleville was a wine-making village, independent of Paris, until 1860. It was popular for its guinguettes, or country cafes.
     
  • Residents of Belleville were considered some of the most rebellious, resisting fiercely during the "Paris Commune" of 1871, when the Versailles Army came to reconquer the city.
     
  • The early 1900's saw many cultural groups fleeing persecution in their home countries and landing in Belleville’s safe haven: the Ottoman Armenians arrived in 1918, the Ottoman Greeks in 1920, the German Jews in 1938 and the Spanish in 1938. Tunisian Jews and Muslim Algerians began arriving in the 1960's.

 

Places of Interest in Belleville:

 

  • Parc de Belleville
    Leave the chaotic urban bustle behind and enter this unassuming sanctuary. The Parc de Belleville offers strolls through tree-covered lanes, cozy park benches and a magnificent 180-degree view of the city.
     
  • Edith Piaf’s birthplace
    The legendary singer is said to have been born under a streetlamp on neighborhood thoroughfare rue de Belleville. There's a commemorative plaque at number 72.

 

Out and About in Belleville:

 

Eating and Drinking

  • Le Sainte Marthe
    32, rue Sainte-Marthe
    Tel: +33 (0)1 44 84 36 96
    Metro: Belleville
    Tucked away just off the main, busy stretch of Boulevard de la Villette is Place Sainte Marthe, a tranquil and sunny corner of Paris with an old Mediterranean vibe. Stop by Le Sainte Marthe restaurant for a combination of old Parisian bistro and Spanish tapas bar. And make sure to save room for the moelleux au chocolat for dessert.
     
  • Bar aux Folies
    8, rue de Belleville
    Metro: Belleville
    Attracting a mixed crowd, this bar-- featuring somewhat garish, flourescently lit interiors-- is much loved by Belleville residents, so much so that it has featured in four films. Food is not served here, but the beer is always on tap, and inexpensive. The large outside terrace is always full, especially on evenings and weekends.
     
  • Felicity Lemon
    4, rue Lemon
    Metro: Belleville
    Serving fresh and delicious small plates that marry French, Spanish, and fusion cuisines, this adorable "cantine" just off of the street-art filled Rue Denoyez is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Read our full review here. 

 

  • Café Chéri/e
    44, Boulevard de la Villette
    Tel:+33 (0)1 42 02 02 05
    Belleville's consummate hipster hangout, this bar, splashed in red decor, offers inexpensive drinks, free wi-fi, music and open mic poetry nights featuring some of the city's edgier DJs.
     
  • Chinese and Vietnamese specialties:
    Belleville hosts too many well reputed Chinese, Vietnamese, or Thai kitchens to count. Duck into one of the area's many Chinese or Vietnamese restaurants on Rue de Belleville or Boulevard de la Villette.
Arts and Culture
  • Cabaret Populaire/Culture Rapide
    103, rue Julien Lacroix
    Tel: +33 (0)1 46 36 08 04
    Metro: Belleville
    If you’re longing for a taste of home, get your fix here. Every other Monday, this trendy nightspot offers poetry slams in English, where anyone is free to sign up. If that’s not your thing, come for one of their other eclectic events, like Tarot card readings or acoustic Blues jam sessions.
     
  • Les Ateliers d'Artistes de Belleville
    32, rue de la Mare
    Tel: +33 (0)1 46 36 44 09
    Metro: Jourdain
    There are several starting points for checking out Belleville's many art galleries – like Place Sainte Marthe and Rue Dénoyez – but if you’re feeling overwhelmed by all the choices, head over to the AAB. This association represents more than 240 neighborhood artists and has its own gallery, showing the collective’s various works. It also organizes the Belleville Portes Ouvertes d'Ateliers d'Artistes (Open House day) in May, when local artists open their studios to the public.

 

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