On the Paris Veggie Trail
With the level of choice and quality on offer, the Parisian culinary scene is a dream come true for committed foodies. That is, unless you're vegetarian. With meat the star attraction of France's world-revered cuisine, don't be surprised if your assertion of vegetarianism is met with confusion. Luckily, though, dig a little deeper and you'll discover a limited yet flourishing vegetarian (and dare I say it, vegan) restaurant scene. So don't fret if the sight of yet another beef bourguignon sends you packing-- your next great tofu casserole is just around the corner.
1. Le Grenier de Notre Dame
Address: 18 rue de la Bucherie, 75005Tel.: +33(0)1 43299829
Metro: Saint Michel
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A five-minute walk from Notre Dame Cathedral, this quaint little left-bank restaurant arrived on the scene in 1978. Seating is available on two floors, and the set lunch and dinner menus provide a good choice for vegetarians and vegans alike (skewered seitan, lentil moussaka, tofu ravioli, etc.) The juices are highly recommended too. "Zen" lunch and dinner menus are €12.50 and €14.50 (approx. $16.50-$19), so you can treat yourself to some good wholesome food following a hike up Notre Dame’s North Tower.
2. Piccolo Teatro
Address: 6, rue des Ecouffes, 4th arrondissementTel.: +33(0)1 42721779
Metro: St-Paul
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Combine good vegetarian food with romance in Piccolo Teatro, hidden away on Rue des Ecouffes in the Marais district. Couples can enjoy an intimate, atmospheric evening here. The cuisine is a mix of Italian and Indonesian, and the menu provides a mix of hot soups, salads, curries and pasta, all of which can be washed down with a bottle of organic red wine. Main courses cost between 10-15 € (approx. $13-20) and there's a special tasting menu for first-timers. Reservations are recommended.
3. Au Grain de Folie
Address: 24, rue La Vieuville, 75018Tel.: +33(0)1 42581557
Metro: Abbesses
Possibly the smallest and most intimate of Parisian veggie restaurants, Au Grain de Folie is a homey vegetarian eatery in the Montmartre district. A stone’s throw from the Sacre Coeur, visiting vegetarians should not miss out on this off-the-beaten-track gem. Make sure to call ahead, though, to secure one of the elusive tables. Open for lunch and dinner, Au Grain de Folie serves wholesome organic fare at reasonable prices.
4. Le Marais
Address: 54 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 75004Tel.: +33(0)1 48874871
Metro: Hôtel de Ville or St-Paul
Formerly Aquarius, this restaurant is one of the best-known among the Paris vegetarian community. The menu is a combination of salads, wheat pancakes and savory tarts, with fish dishes also a feature (puritans beware!). Organic wine is on the menu but smoking is not, making it one of the few restaurants to offer a smoke-free environment pre-2008. Vegans should check with wait staff before ordering. Main courses are 8-15 € (approx. $10.50-$20). There have been some reports of unfriendly service here.
5. Le Potager du Marais
Address: 22 rue Rambuteau, 75003Tel.: +33(0)1 42 74 24 66
Metro: St Paul
Also located in the Marais, this restaurant is a convenient stop following a visit to the Centre Georges Pompidou. Compact and hectic, the atmosphere is fun and homey. Hot soups, homemade tofu, and seitan bourguignon are all on the menu, which has a la carte and set menu options. Allow for between €10-€15 (approx. $13-$20) for an a la carte meal, and the set menu (starter, main course and dessert) costs €20 (approx. $26). All dishes are prepared with organic ingredients.
6. Maoz Falafel
Address: 8 Rue Xavier Rivas, 75005Tel.: +33(0)1 43263600
Metro: Saint Michel
Falafel is possibly Paris' greatest gift to vegetarians. The city is awash with quality suppliers, and this charming restaurant is among the best. Cooked in olive oil, the falafel here has a unique flavor, and you can complement it to abundance thanks to the excellent all-you-can-eat salad bar. Try the falafel with eggplant, a house specialty. Seating is limited, but take-out is available, and an order of falafel, salad, french fries and drink will set you back about €7 (approx. $9).
7. Krishna-Bhravan
Address: 24 Rue Cail, 75010Tel.: +33(0)1 42057843
Metro: Gare du Nord
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An authentic Indian curry is almost as hard to come by as vegetarian food in Paris, but fortunately, Krishna-Bhravan provides a little of both under the same roof. Crepes and basmati rice are served with spiced vegetables and sauces (which are often dairy-based, so vegans should check suitability before ordering). Value for money here is second-to-none: for less than a tenner, you'll feast on a main course, pappadams, soup, salad and a traditional Indian dessert. Take-out is also available.
8. Le Paradis du Fruit
Address: 1 rue des Tournelles, 75006Tel.: +33(0)1 40279479
Metro: Bastille
Part of a chain of restaurants, this French cafe offers a tropical atmosphere and an innovative menu. While not exclusively vegetarian, it's worth a mention as there are plenty of healthy, meatless options to choose from, including soybean salads, skewered tofu and pineapple, and Indian vegetable curry. Main courses range from €10-€15 (approx. $13-$20). Inventive ice creams, juices and smoothies average at €7 (approx. $9), and are a must for any visit here. Great for a refreshing spring or summer meal.
