The abundance of Paris restaurants serving North African food makes the search for an authentic eatery difficult. On a recommendation from an Algerian friend and swayed by the promise of "Berber specialties," I decide to give L’homme Bleu a try, hoping for a dining experience with a twist.
Situated in Paris' 11th district, L’homme Bleu is a North African restaurant specializing in Berber cuisine. Berbers are the indigenous tribespeople that populate the mountainous desert areas of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. L’homme bleu ("The Blue Man") refers to the blue robes traditionally worn by Berber men.
The Lowdown
Pros:
- Authentic North African cuisine
- Chatty wait staff
- Relaxed ambiance
Cons:
- On the pricey side
- Limited seating
- Blend of flavors can be overpowering
Practical Info:
- Address: 55 bis rue Jean Pierre Timbaud
- Tel.: 33 (0)1 48 07 05 63
- Metro: Couronnes (line 2)
- Hours: Monday to Saturday (7 p.m. - 2 a.m.)
- Cuisine: North-African (Algerian/Moroccon)
- Drinks: Full wine list; cocktails; beer
- Price range: Approx. 35 Euros per head (approx. $46) for 3 courses + wine
- Crowd: Bohemian
- Reservations recommended all week
Setting and Ambiance
I book a table for two to be on the safe side, and am glad of this when we arrive at the packed restaurant. We are late to arrive and the server ushers us outside to the only vacant table.
Basic street-seating is what’s on offer here, but we are content with this arrangement, which allows us to soak up the atmosphere of vibrant rue Jean Pierre Timbaud.
Parallel to the equally-hip rue Oberkampf, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud has undergone a major facelift in the past decade. Previously dotted with a few traditional boutiques and predominantly working-class, the street has become a haven for trendy bars and restaurants, and a popular hang-out for "bobos" (Paris' bourgeois-bohemian set).
Despite this influx, Timbaud has retained its charm and still feels less discovered and more authentic than its overcrowded neighbor, rue Oberkampf.
The decor is basic, with wooden chairs and tables, a bar, and some fairy-style lights dotted around the room. An open kitchen allows customers to observe the traditional tagine preparation and the packed tables (the downstairs seating area has also reached capacity) are a testimony to this restaurant’s popularity.
The Menu
The menu is a dazzling array of heavily spiced vegetarian-, fish-, and meat-based dishes, so we order a cocktail (6.50 Euros/approx. $8.50) to buy us some time. The main courses are clearly divided into two categories: couscous and tagine dishes.
- North-African couscous is granular semolina served with a variety of spiced stewed vegetables, fish, and meat.
- Tagine is similar, but cooked and served in a conical clay pot of the same name, with couscous grain as an accompaniment.
The Dining Experience
ServiceOur waiter is charming and affable. I seize the opportunity to expand my knowledge of Berber culture but quickly discover that most of the staff are Moroccan, with only some distant Berber ancestry. The waiter suggests we try a vin gris (dry rosé wine) produced in a Berber region, which turns out to be a good complement to the flavorsome dishes.
The Fare
For starters, we decide to share eggplant caviar with olive oil and garlic (6.50 Euros/approx.$8.50). We are vaguely tempted by the spicy crushed tomatoes and olive oil, but settle on grilled meatballs with spices (8.50 Euros/approx. $11) as a complementary hot option.
The caviar is perfect in texture and flavor, mopped up with flat Turkish-style bread, and the meatballs are tasty, although some might find these a little heavy as an appetizer.
The Main Course
From an impressive selection of multi-spiced main courses, we both opt for tagine. Although curious to try the sweet and sour lamb with almonds and orange blossom, I finally select the vegetarian option (with poached egg, mixed vegetables and coriander) while my companion chooses the lamb with mixed vegetables, pickled lemon, and olives. Both are served with light couscous, deliciously peppered with cinnamon.
The Presentation
The portions are ample and the colorful presentation appealing. It’s clear that quality is key at L'homme Bleu: all the vegetables taste fresh, and the lamb is succulent. The blend of flavors is at times overpowering, though, particularly in the lamb dish, where the tangy pickled lemon took over.
