I've become increasingly grumbly and exasperated with Paris restaurant culture's refusal to cater to vegetarians, or to assume that all vegetarians want and need is a plate of raw, unseasoned vegetables. Hailing from California, I have a lot of non-carnivorous friends who are used to vegetarian fare not having to rhyme with bland and uninspired, and I've often been hard-pressed to find good places to take them. Enter Macéo, a traditional-looking outfit near the Palais Royale owned by Mark Williamson, who launched the popular Willi's Wine bar next door. I recently dined there and was more than impressed to note that they give vegetables and vegetarian cuisine a starring role on their inventive, fresh, inspired menu. It's given me entirely new hope that "veggiegastronomy" might have a place in a city that's always been a dream for carnivores. For those who don't want to eschew meat, not to worry: there's plenty on the menu for you, too, but chef Taka, who once worked under the famed French chef Joel Robuchon, always makes creative use of vegetables, no matter the dish.